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CHAPTER XV: AFTER THE STORM
 View source information (Memoirs of Colonel Ranald Macdonell of the Bengal Light Cavalry)

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(Eleanor Macdonell's Memories)

          After the mutiny so many young men were available for officering the newly raised regiments, that the older colonels were offered £250 per annum in addition to the pension they were entitled to, if they chose to retire.   It was quite optional to go, or to stay and take their chance of employment.   This offer was made, I think, in the beginning of 1858, but it was not at once accepted, for no one knew what was to happen.

          In the meantime Ranald sent me up to the hills, and he went to do duty at Sialkot with the 7th Dragoon Guards, for two months, to learn all about the management of an English regiment.  Then, having got a high certificate from the commanding officer, he went to Benares and Cawnpore to see Lord Clyde, and was informed by him that he would get command of one of the new regiments coming from England.   He was accordingly appointed to the command of the 4th Bengal European Light Cavalry on its arrival in India.    

          The officers of the 10th joined their new regiment at  Benares (Note by DRC - ?Allahabad), and all marched to Lucknow, where they were encamped, as there were no barracks for them there.   A short time afterwards the regiment was sent back to Benares, where it remained till 1861, when it was broken up.

          The men, among whom were many who had been in the 9th Lancers, and others who had volunteered from other regiments, were slightly under regulation size, and therefore the regiment got the name of "The Dumpies", but it was soon in grand order, the men very smart and well set up.   Four regiments came out at that time together, the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th B.L.C.   But in 1861 an order came from England that three regiments of European Cavalry would be sufficient, so the 1st, 2nd and 3rd were retained, and the 4th (Ranald's regiment) was amalgamated with the 21st Hussars, and so that regiment got the name of the "Dumpies",  which the 4th and the other three were all called on their arrival in India.

          The 4th Cavalry were in camp at Lucknow, and, most of the bungalows having been burnt down by the rebels, it was impossible for me to go there, so I remained for some time at Simla:  first chumming with my friends Captain and Mrs. Perkins, and then, when they left, I took a charming little house called "The Burge" (fort or bastion) at the Boileau-Gunge end of Simla._It stood on a rising ground sloping down to the Mall, which it overlooked.   This house belonged to our old friend General Innes, who owned a good deal of house property in Simla.   He kindly filled my verandah with scarlet geraniums in flower, and the house being nicely papered and well furnished, I was quite pleased with my surroundings.

 (This house is still in existence and still called the Burge or Burj.   It is close to the gates of Vice-regal Lodge.   It has been acquired by Government. - JHC 1907)

          I was 17 months there with my little boy, and practically alone in Simla, for but few families remained over winter in those days.

          There was very little frost that season,  but snow frequently fell:  I remember it lying six inches deep, and in such weather a fire of wood logs was most enjoyable.

          The scenery about Simla was lovely, for there were the beautiful snowy mountains in the distance, and often splendid old moss-grown trees in the foreground, with wild jessamine or clematis climbing through their branches.  I have seen the huge tree-rhodedendron in full flower with a fall of snow resting upon it, the crimson blossoms apparently none the worse for their chilly mantle, and making a beautiful contrast with the pure snow.

          Flocks of sheep and goats used to be brought down from Ladak to the lower hills in wintertime, each animal laden with bags of salt, asafoetida, grain, etc. etc.   They were very small sheep, but each carried two bags, - one on each side.   On arrival at camping ground for the night, they were relieved of their burdens, which were then piled up in a heap, the sheep surrounded this mass of loads, and round all a number of fires were lighted to scare away leopards, while the men and their dogs kept watch and ward until the morning.

          After I had been over a year at Simla, Ranald got two months' leave, and came up and joined me there.   Soon after his arrival we took a little trip four or five stages on the way to Khotghur Mission station.   We walked a great deal, sometimes ten and twelve miles, and that without getting tired, the air was so pure and bracing.   We saw quantities of chikor, which is a bird very like grouse, but larger;  and occasionally we saw the splendid menal pheasant.  The common pheasant is very numerous, and can be bought for eight annas, - or could, in those days.

          Ranald and I climbed Huttoo, which is a hill 4,000 feet high, - a great climb, but one for which I felt amply repaid by the magnificent view from the summit.   The last part of the ascent was too much for me,

I had to be hauled up by two "paharies" or hill men.

          After Ranald's two months' leave had expired, we went down to Lucknow, and spent a few days with Major and Mrs. Craster R.E. who had a very nice house close to the palace of the King of Oudh, and which had been the residence of the court doctor.   The cavalry lines were then at Murreown, 5 miles out of Lucknow, and nearly all the buildings there having been burnt and destroyed by the mutineers, we had to content ourselves with a small hut which Colonel Alexander let us have.   It contained two small rooms only, but with them and a tent to dine in, we considered ourselves most fortunate, for most of the officers families had tents only.   There was no entertaining in Lucknow at that time, but it was a pretty and interesting place, and there were many charming rides and drives about it.

          I could not remain during the hot weather in such small quarters as we had hitherto occupied in Lucknow, so when the cold weather came to an end, I went up to Mussoorie with my little boy, and there I took a house called "West End",(now the Delhi  and London Bank -1907) from which there was an extensive view of Dehra Dun and the plains beyond.   Dehra Dun is a very pretty little place at the foot of the hills, where a good many retired  officers settled with their families.   They had nice houses and delightful gardens.   It was there I saw a little park in which horses were grazing, surrounded with a hedge of lovely pink China roses in full flower.

          It is a steep ascent of sixteen miles from Dehra Dun to Mussoorie, and Landour, (a delightfully cool place, and the military sanatorium) is still higher.   From there the plains seem a sea, and not land at all.   How I should like to have another look at the snowy range from Landour, if only it were possible to renew my youth and strength!

          My eldest daughter (Jessie Helena) was born at Mussoorie  on the 19th August 1860 at West End, and when she was about two months old, Ranald came up to fetch us down to Benares, the regiment having been transferred to that station during my absence.

 

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